The cuisine of Domenico Della Salandra, tradition and creativity
2017-08-14
The blue of the Gargano and the fog of
Milan. The beaches of the Mediterranean and the traffic-filled roads of the city. Chef
Domenico Della Salandra has managed to bring Apulian slow dining to rushed Milanese lunch breaks. In May, he opened his restaurant
“DesinoLento” in via Filippo Turati: un’an oasis of peace in the short and stressful time frames of Milan.
The restaurant offers
Italian cuisine, linked to
traditionbut which is
creative and
prepared with a great deal of care.
Domenico, what’s the dish that represents you best?
«
There are two. One is spaghetti with tomatoes, linked to Puglia, and the other is risotto alla milanese, linked to the city in which I’ve lived and worked for years. They are traditional dishes reinterpreted in terms of flavour, but with the same characteristics: quality ingredients and personal preparation and cooking techniques».
What do you think your qualities are as a chef?
«
I think that today a chef also has to be a good businessman and a good communicator, aware of his customers’ sensibilities. A chef is no longer someone hidden in the kitchen making food … he or she has to be the focal point of the restaurant, both from an economic and quality point of view. That’s what I’m trying to achieve…time will tell if I’m successful».
How do you create a dish?
«
As I’d like to eat it: with my taste, sensibility and technical skills. When I think of a dish I always think of tradition. I identify with what my grandparents ate or with history and search for what represents me best.».
What is your attitude to innovation?
«
I’m very aware of the idea of history in order to recreate certain dishes. I’m very resistant to innovation, I’m more about tradition, even though the way people eat has changed in recent years. Although I take certain elements out of dishes or reduce some components; for example, fat, I make sure that the dish maintains its consistency and quality.».
Which famous dish by another chef has struck you most?
«
I love Davide Scabin: he’s a genius! His Cyber Egg made history because it’s an innovative dish. Then there’s the spaghetti with spring onion by Aimo Moroni, which made history because it’s inspired by tradition.».
What does the term “ethical food” mean to you?
«
Food that is light and sustainable in all aspects. Food that is created from a knowledge of a local area and the use of its products: no Chinese eels or kiwis from Madagascar… Food that is healthy and fairly priced».
Can food feed the soul?
«
Food is medicine and comfort: when someone comes to me I want them to feel at home, pampered and healed from the stress of a frenetic lifestyle».
Mariagrazia Villa
